OK, finally have my Xtralight HID kits
installed and working with the bike all
buttoned up. Only thing left to do is
check/adjust the aim.
Although this project appears simple,
and isn't too bad - you are playing with
a LOT of $$$ worth of purchase that if
you make a mistake it could cost you.
So, take you time - measure twice, cut
once and pay heed to the following:
READ the attached Xtralight RMA pdf for
details. They have a lot of disclaimers
regarding defective part/warranty
claims. Based on this I would STRONGLY
urge you to at least test the lights
BEFORE removing them from their
protective covers. This can be done by
assembling the one connector, then
unplugging the connector on the back of
the stock bulbs and plugging it into the
appropriate Xtralight connector and
plugging in the HID lamp to the ballast
then turning on the key. The light
should light - if not, DO NOT remove the
light from the protective housing. make
sure ALL the connectors are making solid
contact - I ALMOST sent one ballast back
after I had plugged it in and undone it
at least twice - only on the third try -
just before I was going to send it back
did it suddenly work - and I am SURE it
was one of the two HV connectors that
was the problem.
Pre-Install:
The kit came with one box containing two
other boxes. One of the Bulb in its
protector and the other was the ballast
and harness.
Ballast Box
Contents -
The RED & BLACK wires are where
you will be crimping on the
connector pins |
Lamp Box Contents -
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There are extra pins and even an
extra connector - don't know why
either... You only need two pins and one
connector shown in above picture
The first thing you'll need to do is to
assemble the one connector that isn't
already made - I don't know why they
didn't do this already, but you'll need
to do this even if only to test out the
system before modifying/installing
anything else. Use a good crimping tool
- strip the wires, crip on the pins and
then insert them into the connector
(they should be oriented so that the
crimped side of the pon faces in on the
connector in order to lock in place. Be
sure to insert them fully. Also, be SURE
you have to polarity correct - the red
to red, black to black...
Close-up of
crimped wires in pins
 |
Showing tool used to crimp,
the crimped pins and the amount
I stripped off the ends.
 |
When I inserted the pins into the
connector and then tried to plug it into
it's mate I found the same problem as
Joe Z did - the pins wanted to push back
out. Upon close examination, I found
that the pins were angled slightly
towards the center of the connector so
they weren't going into the female pins
and thus pushing out. I used needle nose
pliers to bias the pins outward a bit -
and after I did that they slid together
cleanly with no problems pushing back
out. Joe used hot glue - your call.
At this point I would assemble all the
connectors together and then plug the
stock lamp supply plug into the one from
the kit for a quick test - better to
ensure your lamps are functional now
while you haven't modified them and can
still send them back...
Once you are confident they work, now
comes the REAL work...
I strongly recommend that you pull the
headlight housing out of the bike
completely - yes that means a fair bit
of work to remove the upper fairing
panels, but it is the only way to ensure
that you get the bulbs seated and
secured properly - I do not believe that
would be possible trying to do so with
the housing still in the bike.
Here's what the removed housing looks
like with the stock bulbs still in it:
(Looking down at back with the bottom of
the housing at the top of the photo with
protective boots removed)
This next photo
shows the supplied HID lamp with
the two tabs that need to be
removed already cut off (I used
a diagonal cutter) - note: DON'T
CUT off the wrong tab! The one
that needs to stay is wider than
the other two. Note the adapter
ring also in photo
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This photo shows the adapter
ring over the HID lamp and you
can see how it won't sit flat -
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Now for the hardest part - the real
surgery of the HID lamp...
I made sure the adapter ring was
centered on the remaining tab and then
used a box cutter to score the base of
the HID lamp so I could see what needed
to be cut off. I did my first one with a
dremel - works, but is slow going and
maks a mess of plastic flakes ( I was
working in the kitchen so wifey wasn't
too happy) When I got close, I switched
to a hand file and ended up with a nice
tight fit. On the 2nd bulb I tried to
cheat a bit and used a hacksaw to cut -
it wasn't as precise and the fit of the
adapter ring wasn't as tight. You'll
have to decide how you want to cut.
Also, I wrapped the HID capsule (bulb
part) in paper towel secured by scotch
tape to prevent any contamination of the
bulb. If your hand touches the glass you
HAVE to clean the capsule with alcohol
else the oils from your hand WILL cause
premature failure of the bulb!
Here's the finished product
Then, installed into the housing:
 |
 |
This one shows a
nice close-up of the surgery
site and the adapter ring and
bulb all installed in the
housing.
 |
|
In order to fit the rubber boot back
over the HID you'll have to cut the core
section -
Then CAREFULLY put the three
wires/connectors through the boot and
then work it over the end and finally
into place.
Finshed HID's mounted in housing -
This is what mine looked like when I
tested it and found one bulb not working
Yours may look different. That's my
Audiovox Cruise control servo on the
left and its associated wiring as well
as some for my GPS. I tried to route the
HV wires from the ballasts - as well as
the ballasts themselves - away from the
clock, and servo so as to not chance any
interference.
Here it is almost all buttoned up. The
canister is my cruise control vacuum
resevoir. It all just fit!
A couple of other notes: I used a dab of
plumbers silicone grease on the ribbed
connector boots to help them slip
together easier. They are really tight
otherwise. Also, I had a problem with
one bulb not lighting initially., I
switched ballasts and it worked leading
me to think it was the ballast. I tired
one last time and it suddenly worked -
so if you have a problem be sure to go
back ansd re-seat the connectors -
especially the booted HV ones.
And the finished product
