NOTICE: This is a personally designed and installed modification on my motorcycle and it's parts. It is published here for the sole purpose of showing how I did this. Anyone wishing to copy this method must assume any and all risks of death or injury that could possibly occur as a result of something (ANYTHING!) going wrong and causing an accident or other unfortunate event. In other words - YOU are responsible for all risks - not me!

Now that I had a bike I would ride for hours at a time, I wanted to add some "spice" to the ride. In my case, the "spice" meant some music, via a portable CD player, as well as my GPS and eventually my Laptop computer. That would make my first requirement some auxiliary power taps so I could run off the bike's power vs. disposable batteries. Being the frugal guy that I am, my second consideration was minimal cost. I also decided on the following additional criteria that were important to me: It had to be quick and easy to use, it needed to be relatively weatherproof, and I wanted nothing "showing" when the taps were not in use. And, lastly, - I didn't want to drill any holes or make any other "permanent" modifications to the bike. So with these criteria here's what I came up with...

You'll need to look closely at the larger version of this picture in order to note the power cord running up just above my left thigh and below my left elbow - this is the power source for the GPS, the Laptop, and the CD Player. It appears to come from inside the bike because that's where I installed the taps!

View from Left Rear. Note the two power cords running out from between the seat and the gas tank cover.

A closer up view, now with the seat removed - this is how I achieved the no cutting/drilling as well as no outward signs or modifications criteria! The added bonus is that it's also sheltered from the weather.

Yes, the seat will still fit fine with both taps in use! I would tuck the converter shown in between the side panel and tank, just below the taps so it would also be shielded from the weather. Worked fine even through hour long torrents.

Here's the view of the power taps as they are installed, with the left side and gas tank covers off for install. Note that initially I used only the two large cable ties around the gas tank but found them insufficient so later (at the time of this picture) I added the tie at the top of the tap to the hose, which gets security from the mount clip directly above it.

This works well enough, though I do use my left hand to steady the taps when plugging in or out. One day I may JB-Weld the lower tab on the tab to make it rock-steady.

What I needed....

I bought the power tap at some auto parts store, or maybe it was Rat Shack - don't recall... It came complete with the inline fuse and the wire was long enough to reach my aux. fuse panel next to the battery. Total cost < $5.00!)

Using the system -

This is pretty simple - Remove seat, plug in and return seat to operating position. Reverse for disassembly.

You may note that originally I was using the 2nd tap for the CD player power converter and tucking it in beside the side panel. I found I got a lot of engine noise that way so I later used an extension cord to run a single cord up to the tankbag, and there I split it to two taps and keep the converter and wiring in the side pocket of the tank bag. It reduced the interference substantially.

Conclusion -

I hope you find this information useful should you be faced with the same problems to solve. I am very happy with how this works for me. Feel free to use and/or modify this design as you see fit. And don't forget to GO RIDE! :-)